Signs Are Us

March 19th, 2012

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People communicate by signs. The sign boards are usually displaying either commercial advertising or communal restrictions and warnings, the latter category often religiously related. Having spent the past 3 years mainly in countries with a major Islamic influence we have often seen signs like the one below. We usually do not choose this kind of establishments if there is a choice, like on the second photo. That sign almost made us drop the hook immediately (you may have to click on the photo to read the sign).

Recently we climbed Sigiraiya, the Lion Rock, in Sri Lanka (see report) and there was a sign displaying a ban on entering with liquor which, I suppose, referred to all alcohol (below). A cold beer would have been very welcome after the 1,200 steps to reach the top, but the only sign we could find up there was a warning that “going down is dangerous” (second one below). Well, be as it may, staying on the top without beer wasn’t an option either, so we quickly ascended the rock, almost seing mirages of ice cold beer on the horizon. Imagine our disappointment when, after finding a five star restaurant, they told us that it was impossible to buy beer anywhere that day in Sri Lanka – because of Full Moon Day! And this isn’t even a Muslim country and this time there was no warning sign.

Corruption among persons in authority at the port of Galle is rumoured to be rampant and we had some experiences ourselves. There is a warning sign posted at the gate, informing that asking for and offering bribes are criminal offences (below). It must have been a politician who had that sign installed. Politicians usually come up with ideas which have no relevance in resolving problems they address, but give them a chance to claim that they have done something. The second photo below displays what a Lankan tuk tuk-driver thinks about politicians.

Some signs are completely useless. Or what do you think about the advice on how to react if attacked by wasps (below). An equally stupid sign is the (presumably) restricted parking. But maybe the restriction doesn’t apply to foreigners.

Sometimes the warning signs are addressed to a particularly broad public. I bet the monkeys crossing the road at this particular spot in Malaysia are extremely grateful for being warned about vehicles.

Political Unrest and Routing Decisions

February 15th, 2012

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A year ago our plan to sail across the Arabian Sea to the Mediterranean was aborted because of the pirates. Now, just as we prepare to leave Thailand to sail to South Africa via the Maldives, there is political unrest in the atoll country. The democratically elected president has been forced to resign and protesters are burning police stations.


(We can see you, but you wont see us)

Read more ..

Fuel Is Killing My Ourboard

January 31st, 2012

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I have a 4-stroke outboard engine – I do NOT want a 4-stroke outboard.

So why do I have a 4-stroke?

In 2005, in Panama, I bought a new (tax-free) 15hp Yamaha Enduro outboard. It was a 2-stroke machine; powerful, reliable, easy to DIY-service (could have been salvaged even in the event of being submerged) – and easy to start. I loved it.

The Yamaha was stolen less than a year later in Raiatea, French Poynesia. The only replacement outboard of the required size (15-20hp) we could find in the Society Island was a 4-stroke Suzuki, which was shipped to us in Raiatea from Papeeté. I didn’t really want a 4-stroke outboard on a cruising boat in the third world; it is heavy, technically complex and vulnerable. But I had no choice. As with everything else in Polynésie française it came with a price: more than double what I had paid for the Yamaha. In addition to the price of the engine itself, I later had to design and order a hoisting crane on the transom because of the weight of the machine.

Our biggest problem with the outboard has to do with the increasing mix of ethanol and other (“bio”) ingredients in gasoline. At the filling station pumps we cannot get 100% gasoline (or even something like E5 98 octane) anymore (at least not where we have been in Malaysia and Thailand). Markus, who runs the Suzuki service at Derani Yachts in Boat Lagoon told me that one of his customers had sent a sample of the local 95 octane fuel to a laboratory and found out that there was 20% ethanol and 10% palm oil!

The primary reason for ethanol (ethanol alcohol) being harmful to an engine is alcohol’s water-absorbing and solvent qualities. Ethanol is an excellent solvent. It will dissolve plastic, rubber, some types of fibreglass and (I think) even aluminium. It will create a sludge that coats and travels through the engine, causing complications including clogged fuel filters and carburetor jets. Therefore all major car and marine motor manufacturers have limited the allowable portion of ethanol to 10% (in the western world this fuel is called E10 and is 95 octanes). However, when even ten percent is questionable, imagine what higher levels of ethanol can cause. Regarding the 4-stroke outboard the biggest problem is the complex (and expensive) carburetor. Fuel flow is adjusted by extremely tiny orifices (referred to as jets) in the body of the carburator. The sludge created by ethanol will definitely clog these jets. With the extremely simply carburetors of 2-stroke outboards this is less of a problem.

I have found out (the hard way) that if the engine is run every day there is less risk of a clogged carburator, but if you leave the outboard standing for more than 2 days it is best to completely drain the carburator. This is done by opening a screw on the side of the device and letting the fuel out. This is a messy operation and can not be done after you have hoisted the outboard up on deck, so before hauling it out you need to know when it will be in use next time. There is no practical way to collect the drained fuel either, so guess where it ends up? And the idea with 4-strokes was supposed to be their environment-friendly clean burning process (due to precise fuel injection) ….

And before you suggest just disconnecting the hose to the fuel tank and then run the engine until it is out of fuel: don’t! It doesn’t work; I don’t know why, but I have tried.

So, why is this not a problem with cars? There must be millions of cars running on this ethanol-rich gasoline day after day. The reason, I am told, is that they have high pressure fuel injectors, which is also the case with bigger outboards (over 40hp).

An other problematic quality is the short shelf life of fuel containing ethanol. Even E10 is reported to have a shelf life of only 1-2 months in ideal conditions. Fuel in small boats is usually stored in jugs prone to condensation and consequently some water builds up. Therefore, with higher quantities of ethanol, we shouldn’t store more than a couple of weeks use of outboard fuel onboard – particularly in tropical conditions. Problem is that some times there will be months between the filling stations.

4-stroke outboards are great at your summer cottage in the western world, where you can better trust the quality of the fuel at the pumps and don’t have to store any reserve amounts at home – and, where you can easily contact a repair work-shop when shit hits the fan.

Related article: From Polynesia to Cook Islands.

Staying Connected

January 20th, 2012

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Yesterday we arrived in Kuah, the main settlement of Langkawi in Malaysia. Our first task, having visited the offices of Customs, Immigration and Harbour Master, was to get new SIM cards for both voice and data communication. It has been a while since our last visit and our old Malaysian SIM cards had expired. This time we purchased 5 cards: two for dumb phones, one for a smart phone (Nokia Lumia 800) and two for dongles that we connect to laptops (Mac and PC). As usual, we bought cards from two different operators, in case one has better coverage in certain locations than the other.

The three most important things nowadays appear to be: connection, connection, connection.

Related story: Biggest change in 20 years of cruising.

A Reminder

December 14th, 2011

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Once in a while I need to remind visitors that this blog is mostly about non-cruising related stuff. The cruising stories are found via other links from the Home Page, particularly in the Log & Yarns -section.

The Ark?

December 14th, 2011

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Our visas to Thailand were expiring, so we flew to Singapore for a few days. The skyline had changed since our previous visit!

As you all have seen in the news, Thailand has recently suffered from the worst flooding in 50 years. More than 500 persons died and at least one million people became temporarily or permanently jobless and/or homeless.

Apparently the people of Singapore have learned a lesson from the ordeal of it’s neighbour and have started to prepare for the deluge. What could serve as a better launching platform for their Ark than these skyscrapers?

Maybe they will also have a lottery – who gets permission to get onboard?

Getting Proper Screwed – again

December 11th, 2011

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When you are a long term cruiser, and regularly find yourself in a new country, with a language you don’t understand and cultures, habits, politics and religions different from your own and previous countries you have visited, it is likely that, sooner or later, you will make a fool of yourself when it comes to money stuff – no matter how smart you try to be.

This has happened to me many times in many countries. We have now been visiting more than 80 countries on our yacht during 20 years. Each time I get screwed, I tell myself: OK, they will not get me on this scam next time. And of course they won’t, because I have learned from my mistake. Problem is; there will be a new plot next time in the next country.

Last month, here in Thailand, I decided to send my old wind generator on a factory over haul to England. I was advised, by a local contractor (in good faith as far as I can determine) to use a shipping agent and go for a “repair and return” procedure. Doing so I would only have to pay import charges, on the return, based on the cost of the repair plus return shipping costs.

At the end the project turned out to be a big mistake, something that the agent must have realized from the start and she should have advised me to just ship the unit in a regular way without the “repair and return” hassle.

First, I ended up paying, in government charges and the agent’s fees an amount equal to about 130% of the value (on the repair plus TNT return shipping). I would call this confiscation!

Second, the return shipment took more than two weeks as there was so much paper work included AND the package had to be routed via Bangkok (because of the “repair and return” scheme). When I received the invoice there were 22 attachments stapled to it!

In comparison: I have ordered marine products four times to be sent here to Thailand (from both the EU and the USA), deck hardware, winches, electronics, and they arrived directly to Phuket within 3 working days and generated only 10-15% import charges.

This is only a fragment of the sad story about the wind generator in question. The whole picture will be revealed in a later story called: The World’s Most Expensive Electricity. Stay tuned.

Splash – finally

December 3rd, 2011

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During the past 18 months Scorpio has spent 13 months in a “dry dock”, being subject to the Mother of All Refits (a slight exaggeration, as there was nothing seriously wrong with her). We started the project in May 2010, then went for a sea trial of 4,000 nm to the Maldives in January – May 2011, after which the project resumed between May and December 2011.

For this reason, between May and December this year, there has been less activity on the Scorpiosail website than usual. This is about to change soon: Scorpio was lifted back into the sea a couple of days ago.

We, the crew, have been living in a hotel for seven months during this renovation project and we will not move aboard until around mid-December. Until then we will work on the last details of the renewed interior of the yacht including electronic installations.

We hope to be sailing again before Christmas.

The Parking Blues

November 20th, 2011

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During the past 12 months we have lived 5 months in an apartment at Boat Lagoon Resort while Scorpio has been subject to a major refit. It is very convenient because the boat stands on the hard only 200 metres away. We decided, however, that having a car permanently is necessary because I constantly have to hunt for parts and other stuff all over Phuket.


What is this? Read on.

This is where it gets interesting. Parking here in Boat Lagoon is a difficult subject. At street level the resort’s buildings are occupied by various stores and offices. In front of these is a row of parking spots under the buildings, protected from sun and rain. Half of them are reserved for commercial use and the rest for the hotel’s guests.

Unfortunately, the shopkeepers have little respect for this arrangement. Many of them have a habit of parking in the hotel guests spots because that provides them with more spaces as they can use their own spots also. Often, if I managed to occupy a vacant guest spot, the people of the store facing that spot gave me a sour look. Sometimes they even claimed that the spot was reserved for their business – although every guest spot is clearly indicated by a sign.

Some businesses, like this tour operator (photo above), have put out chairs and tables in the guest spots outside their premises – right under the sign “Parking for hotel guests only”. Others use the spot as a work shop for carpentering, painting etc.

Having been constantly kicked in my ass because of my parking for a couple of months I went to talk to the hotel manager. She kindly decided to give me a designated spot and put up a sign with my register number indicating that this particular spot was reserved for my car only. However, I was not surprised when, during the next days, this spot was almost always taken by other cars. I tried to improve the sign by writing on it in English with a red felt pen: RESERVED – to no avail. Finally, one day when I had to find another spot some distance away, with a lot of stuff to carry, I put a note under the windshield wiper of the car that happened to be parked in my spot that day.

Are you blind, or ignorant or just plain stupid? You are parking in a reserved spot!

Next morning I found a note under my own wiper. There were no words, just a drawing. And it didn’t illustrate just the middle finger but the real thing, I guess. Whoever the poorly talented artist was, he had also torn down my parking sign and stuffed that too under my wiper.

I decided to look at the incident with humour. The resort’s manager, however, put up a new more impressive sign, including the logo and name of Boat Lagoon Resort.

The situation has now improved somewhat. Maybe word has gotten around that I am a problem, who knows, and there may be some respect for me in the area now. But at least half of the time now, my parking space is available for me.

Nonetheless, very soon we had to change the reserved-sign one more time because my rented car broke down and therefore the sign didn’t match the number of my new car.

If it is not one it is the other, said the girl bleeding from her nose.

On the other hand, having myself fined and my new car clamped in my own parking spot would have provided for an even funnier ending of this story.

Moomin character?

October 25th, 2011

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A few months ago I wrote about sailor’s toes (May 1, 2011).

The photo below is not of a blushing Moomin character!