Earthquake 7.5 in the Nicobar Islands

June 13th, 2010

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A magnitude 7.5 earthquake struck under the seabed in the Nicobar islands, causing tremors that were felt a thousand kilometres away on the Indian mainland, where many were shaken awake in the dead of the night causing some to flee their homes in panic. The quake hit early Sunday morning local time, with the epicentre less than 350 nautical miles from Phuket in Thailand.


Distance from epicentre to Phuket is 350nm
Click map for larger version

Our yacht Scorpio is presently in Phuket, but fortunately hauled out high on dry land. I am in Finland myself, trying to check various sources on the Internet to determine the risk for tsunamis in the area.

The Pacific Tsunami Center in Hawaii and the Indian Ocean Information Centre have issued tsunami warnings and watches, but the alerts were later cancelled. Only a mild surge in sea levels of around 50 centimetres were expected.

This area was badly hit by the 2004 tsunami which was triggered by an earthquake off Sumatra and sent giant waves crushing across the region. 220,000 people were killed, most of them in the Indonesian province of Aceh on Sumatra. Thousands were killed also in Sri Lanka, India, Myanmar and Thailand.

The Andaman Sea witnesses frequent eartquakes caused by the meeting of the Indian tectonic plate with the Burmese micro plate along an area known as the Andaman Trench.

Bloody currency fluctuations

June 4th, 2010

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We haven’t been very lucky with the changings of the currency rate during the past decade. Our floating home has been located in maybe 20 different countries during this financially turbulent period and we have undertaken some pretty costly boat work. Usually there has always been an unfavourable change in the exchange rates whenever we spend more local currency than normal.

Our currency is the Euro.



The value of the Euro compared to Thailand Baht (6/09-05/10).
Click on chart for a larger copy. Source: www.xe.com.

Half a year ago (November 2009) we arrived in Thailand and decided to undertake some major repairs and face lifts on our yacht. Now, in May 2010, when the work is under way and the invoices are dropping in, the value of Euro in Thailand Baht has dropped by 20% (even before the Greek problem hit the news, the drop was 15%). If the grand total value of our projects is, say 700.000 THB, our costs have increased by 3,500 Euros.

Bad timing, wrong time and wrong place.

Unfortunately there’s not much we can do about it. With hind sight somebody could say: Hey, why didn’t you terminate the amount in November? Well, we were not committed to all the projects until we had found the right contractors and agreed on prices, and by then we were already in April when the Greek problem suddenly hit the fan. Who would buy a large amount of Thailand Bahts just for speculation?

Anyway, we have seen this phenomenon before during our voyage.

Most countries in the Americas either use US dollars or their currency is linked to the dollar. We spent several years in Central and South America, the Caribbean and on the US east coast from 2000 to 2005. We had particularly expensive boat work done in 2002 and 2003, when the value of one Euro was around 0.85 US cents. After those years, the situation became the reverse and you could buy more than 1.5 US for a single Euro. However, by then we had moved to areas outside the USD-world and had little gain because of the strengthening of the Euro.

Instead, during the time when we spent around 50,000 New Zealand dollars on boat work in 2007, the value of the Euro decreased by 20% compared to the NZD.

Same stories, different currency, tough luck – this is cruising.

30,000 litres of water!

May 26th, 2010

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In April we left Scorpio on the hard in Boat Lagoon Marina, Phuket, Thailand. Then we flew to Europe for a few months. A month later, included in the marina’s first monthly invoice, I was charged for the use of 30,000 litres of water!

I know that I used about 1,000 litres when filling the tanks and cleaning the yacht. I have also had a contracor peeling off the anti-fouling paint and he has used some water, but not any excess amounts. According to the my contractor, the water tap has been locked.

30,000 litres is equal to the amount that flows through our tanks in about 10 years (and we live aboard 9-10 months a year).
I have protested about this charge, but so far no reply from the marina.

Update June 21, 2010: The marina has now credited the whole water charge (did it in next month’s invoice, but never replied to my complaint). Thank you.

Goodbye Hotmail

May 17th, 2010

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I’m finally abandoning Hotmail.

The last drop was when someone hijacked my address book and sent most of my contacts a fake message recommending iPhone.
In the process all my contacts have disappeared from the address book and so have all mails in my inbox for the last two months.

I will change to the following address: henrik(at)scorpiosail.com. But for the time being please use both addresses (copy to hotmail).
angry_smaller

Sawatdee pi Maï – Happy Thai New Year

April 11th, 2010

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During the past four months we have witnessed New Year’s celebrations at least four times. We are now back in Phuket in Thailand and prepare for the New Year 2553.

New Year occurs on different days in different countries and the calender is usually based on religion. Here in Thailand it is called Songkran and takes place this year between 13th and 16th of April. Next year will be 2553, as Buddha was born 563 BCE. However, all Buddhists over the world do not celebrate New Year on this day. The Chinese for example celebrated their New Year on 14th February, when we were in Langkawi.

songkran

There are also a lot of Muslims in this part of the world, particularly in Southern Thailand and Malaysia which adds their New Year to the mix, last time was around 18 of December 2009. And finally throw in the Hindu version, which also appears to take place any day now, around the sun’s entry into any sign of the Zodiac, similar to the date of the Christian Festival of Easter.

As a result of the ethnic and religious mix of the population, there are a lot of public and other holidays over here. Quite a few times we have been forced to change our plans or found doors closed because of these various holy days. It appears that very often a particular day, when we have made plans to do something (banking, shopping, clearing customs etc), happens to be either a Muslim, Buddhist, Hindu or other sacred day. Adding to other holidays is the custom in Langkawi where Muslims have their weekly day-off on Friday. The civil servants love all these holidays of course – they are free from work regardless of which faith they obey, and if they happen to be at work they can charge overtime fees!

Here’s a couple of New Year’s quotes:
– “Many people look forward to the new year for a new start on old habits.”
– “Good resolutions are simply checks that men draw on a bank where they have no account” (Oscar Wilde)

Return to Thailand

April 6th, 2010

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koh_lipe_position
Click map for larger size

Hello from Koh Lipe, an island in Thailand only 30NM NW of Malaysia’s Langkawi @ 06°29′ N, 099°18′ E. We are presently under way from Langkawi to Phuket in Thailand.

A well kept secret among the cruising community is the presence of an immigration office at Koh Lipe. We didn’t clear in here as they do not have any customs clearance and we have to clear in the yacht in Phuket anyway. But in case one has consumed all the time of one’s Malaysian visa it is convenient to just “drive over” to Koh Lipe from Langkawi and then return the next day.

Apparently the immigration office at Koh Lipe is open only during the high season, which is around December to April, so check ahead first.

Indochina Road Trip – The Route

March 29th, 2010

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We are back home aboard Scorpio in Langkawi after our 15-day road trip to Indochina and Siam. Our route is explained by the map below. The red lines indicate flights (7x) and blue lines show bus trips (3x).

SEA-journey-web
(Click map for larger version)

Before we took off I had only a rough idea of our route. Our strategy was to plan as we go and we only booked one flight and hotel at a time. Therefore I tried to find hotels with internet in the room, I was carrying a laptop and did all flight and hotel bookings on the web.

We didn’t go for the dirt cheap guest houses, but stayed in four star hotels paying an average of 50 USD per night. You could probably do this trip and stay in 2-3 star hotels for around 20 USD, if you know where they are. We had no recommendations and didn’t want to risk arriving in a place we didn’t like, and as you usually arrive in each place in the evening. Therefore we always booked only one night and then extended our stay and it worked fine every time.

The full report will be posted in due course in the Log & Yarns section.

Chiang Mai – temples galore

March 25th, 2010

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We didn’t visit all the 300 temples, only a dozen or so – guess that our temple quota is full by now. But they really are quite amazing.

templetaxi

Chiang Mai is a cool place, despite the heat and a population of 1,5 million (according to Lonely Planet) – it is Thailand’s second largest city. It has been a major centre on ancient trading routes, where caravans stopped between Simao (in China) and and Mawlamyine (on Burmas Indian Ocean coast), and it is still today the Silk-Capital of Siam. Chiang Mai’s leading tourist attraction appears to be the Night Bazaar, which is one of the largest we have experienced.

abbot

Chiang Mai is also where our tour of Indocina/Siam ends, two weeks from it’s beginning. Because of the political unreast in Bangkok, we decided to return to our yacht in Langkawi. As there are no direct flights, we will first fly to Kuala Lumpur and then to Langkawi.

A full report of the tour will be posted at the Scorpiosail website in due course.

mobile_meditation
Mobile meditation?

Indochina past, Siam present

March 24th, 2010

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Today we arrived in Chiang Mai, the cultural Capital of northern Thailand, 700 km north of Bangkok. We traveled by Lao Airlines from Luang Prabang in Laos.

Our 12 days in Indochina are now a past and we are back in Siam, although I guess that these geografic names from the past have no exact borders. One particular detail, ubiquitous everywhere regardles of country, is the monks in their orange robes.

monks

Chiang Mai was founded in the 13th century and it has more than 300 temples, almost as many as Bangkok, which is a much larger city. We’ll explore Chiang Mai for a day or two before we start heading south. Originally our plan was to travel via Bangkok, but the present political unrest in the Thai Capital may force us to skip it this time, so we may fly back to Scorpio in Langkawi (via Kuala Lumpur) a few days earlier than planned. No big loss though, we’ve been in Bangkok before.

Land of a million elephants

March 23rd, 2010

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– Hello from Luang Prabang.
– Thank you, but … wonder where that is …

elephant
Well yes, I didn’t know about the place either until I started to plan on our journey in Indochina.

We are in Laos PDR. The letters PDR stand for Peoples’ Democratic Republic and the only reason for my generation to have ever heard about this landlocked (no sea border) country is the Vietnam War – some of you may particularly remember the fabled (CIA owned) Air America and its Ravens. I suspect younger generations know even less.

buddhas-luang

As a matter of fact, Laos was a kingdom until the revolution of 1975. The first kingdom was established already in the 14th century with the title Lan Xang, or (Land of a) Million Elephants. But unlike their neighbour Cambodia, the Laos have not returned to kingdom – on the other hand they didn’t have any Khmer Rouge period either.

OK, and Luang Prebang …..?

This city, only 400 km but still, about a 10 hours bus ride north of the present Capital, Vientiane, was the home of the Royal Family. Only a decade ago this area of Laos was very difficult to access (actually its not easy even today except by air), with no decent roads accross the mountains, but today, with better road connections, this once sleepy Capital, with its myriad of temples, glittering in emerald and gold, with its orange-robed monks, and great food, restaurants and night-market may be the most sophisticated and photogenic city in the whole of Indochina.

butterfly

We travelled by bus from Vientiane, and it took all those 10 hours mentioned above and although the VIP bus was reasonably comfortable, the serpent-roads made it a tough ride.

malla_monks

However, Luang Prebang is certainly not an unknown place among serious globetrotters. During the last 5 years it has 4 times been voted “The Worlds Top City Destination” by readers of the UK’s Wanderlust Magazine. Latest trophy was awarded last month, Siena in Italy came second.

wanderlust

The whole city is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.

blue_whitehouse

“Maybe it’s the languid pace of life instilled by the monks, maybe it’s just being in the shadow of those majestic temples; maybe it’s the presence of the mighty Mekong – but the whole place makes you slow down, forget any stress and just appreciate the environment around you. Yes, there are things to see and do, but that’s not the point. Luang Prabang is simply a great place to be” (Wanderlust Magazine).

citroen
French connection