Archive for the ‘Travelling’ Category

Back Aboard

Friday, October 18th, 2013

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The trip from Finland to Chaguaramas in Trinidad was not our worst transfer, but uncomfortable enough. We had to change airports in London, from Heathrow to Gatwick and carry all our luggage as well, on and off the bus. That bustrip alone took 2 hours. Then we had to stay at a hotel over night and catch the plane to Port of Spain next morning. The departure of the plane was delayed by two hours because of some technical problems.

This time we had booked a hotel room at Peake’s Yacht Services, the yard where Scorpio has spent the past 6 months. Traditionally we have always lived aboard the yacht, even in the yards all over the world, but this year we decided we had earned the luxury of some service for ourselves during the first week while we were preparing Scorpio for launch. We did the same last spring after haul-out, during the last days before we flew to Finland. Obviously this is an indication of us getting older and the end of our cruising life getting closer. The only time we have been living ashore before was in Thailand during our major renovations of Scorpio, when we stayed at a hotel for a total of about 8 months.

So, although the heading is “Back Aboard”, we are living in a hotel room about 100 metres from the yacht. But mentally we are already on board. And the terrace outside our room is only 5 metres from the Caribbean Sea.

We hope to splash the yacht and move aboard again within a week.

The photos above are from Peake’s web site.

A Wine Tour to Stellenbosch

Thursday, December 27th, 2012

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About a week ago we went on a Wine tour. It was a great success and I would like to encourage anybody visiting Cape Town to do the same, even if you only have limited time and/or local knowledge at hand. One day is enough to visit at least three vineyards and it doesn’t have to be expensive. You only need to rent a car, get a map (or a navigator) and do some minor research. Or you can skip the research and just follow our route.

I don’t pretend to know much about wine in general, and my knowledge of South African wine in particular was very limited before we went on this trip. My only preparations, the evening before, included some browsing of an old edition of Frommer’s South Africa and studying and printing of some Google maps showing driving directions.

I had chosen three vineyards in Stellenbosch, based partly on the descriptions in the guide and partly based on their location with respect to each other and the distance to downtown Cape Town – we were staying at Royal Cape Town Yacht Club. Each of these vineyards is different from the other ones, with different architecture, settings and views. All of them were worth visiting and all produce great wine.

Our first stop was at Vergenoegd, only about a 50 km drive from Cape Town, less than an hour. Their main building is a magnificent old Dutch mansion, probably built in the late 1600s. We started the day with a taste of one of their white wines and then tasted three great red wines, rounding up with a port wine and finally bought a case of assorted reds for Christmas.

Our next stop was at Rust en Vrede, in a fantastic setting at the end of Annandale road. Their red wine (they don’t make whites) was chosen by Nelson Mandela to be served at the Nobel Peace Price dinner and one of their wines was nominated as the first South African red wine in the Top 100 Wines of the World. Their restaurant has also been nominated as one of the Top 100 Restaurants.

On the way to our last vineyard we made a stop in the centre of the charming town of Stellenbosch, where we recommend a visit to Oom Sami Se Winkel, a general dealer with an amazing inventory.

We chose our last vinyard Tokara because of the views from its restaurant. Their modern architecture and art exhibition also make for an intresting experience. Tokara produces red wines, white wines, brandy and olives.

From Tokara we could have driven on to Franschhoek, said to be the prettiest valley in the Winelands, but we decided we had experienced enough vineyards for one day.

All wines at all three estates were excellent, and very reasonably priced. It was a good day indeed.

Brompton Stupidity

Friday, December 21st, 2012

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Some time ago the inner tube of a tyre on one of our folding Brompton Bikes broke – the stiff valve broke off from the soft rubber, impossible to repair. I started to look for a replacement tyre, but the weels are of such a small size that it seemed impossible to find a tyre in South Africa. I looked at Bromptons home page (they are located in England) and found that they do not have a distributor in SA, so I sent them a mail, asking form a quotation for two inner tubes to be delivered in Cape Town. Their reply was astonishing:

– “We do not have a dealership in South Africa. We are unable to ship directly to you as we expect each Brompton to be checked by a qualified mechanic prior to being given to the customer to ensure it is of the highest safety and standard.”

We own two expensive Brompton Bikes. One of them is now useless because of a simple flat tyre. You would think that it would be in Brompton’s interest to keep their customers happy, when it would simply require sending a new tyre by mail. Instead they refuse because, in their opinion, the replacement of an inner tube needs to be checked by a qualified mechanic.

I have never heard of such nonsense before. Surely there cannot be a more simple service task on a bike than replacing a flat tyre! And adding insult to injury, they informed us, that we could contact their nearest distributor in South AMERICA! Thanks a lot, why not a dealer in Japan?

We have had these bikes on board for 12 years (photo above is from Nassau, Bahamas, 10 years ago) and they have been very useful. I have changed the tyres and inner tubes numerous times, but this time we didn’t have a spare on board.

This is apparently how Brompton rewards their loyal customers. Thanks for buying our bikes but we will not send you any spares.

I guess this must be a classic case, where the manufacturer turns down an opportunity to earn goodwill and instead caused a lot of bad will.

Is Scorpio for Sale?

Sunday, September 2nd, 2012

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Looking for the right yacht for a circumnavigation?

Look here

Photoshopping

Monday, April 18th, 2011

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During a week at anchor I have had time to refresh my Photoshop-skills. I decided to make a collage as an illustration of the subject of this year: piracy has interfered with our plans. It was a quick job, using a masking layer, and doesn’t look very professional, but I think it is appropriate for the situation.

BTW, do you think this guy looks more threathening than concerned?

Cruiser’s Paradise Lost? – The Maldives

Saturday, February 26th, 2011

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1,200 tropical islands – 1,000 of them uninhabited, crystal clear water, abundant marine life, great weather and very friendly people.

A cruiser’s paradise, you may think? Not entirely so, unfortunately –the government of the Maldives does not encourage private cruising in their archipelago.

Read more ..

The Visa Run

Saturday, November 27th, 2010

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Our 60-day visa was expiring in a few days.

Thailand makes it hard for people who wish to stay in the country for longer than just a few weeks. If you enter Thailand without a visa, you will receive a 30-day permit. You can get a visa in advance from Thai embassies and some consulates, in which case you get to stay 60 days (note: 30 days and 60 days, not one and two months).

Before your permit/visa expires you need to leave the country, then you turn around and return. That’s why it’s called a Visa Run. And there doesn’t appear to be any limits to how many times you can do this shuffle, so many people probably do it regularly, thousands of them every day of the year.

The Visa Run is a big business in Thailand. There are numerous organized Visa Run Tours by bus all over the country, every day. From Bangkok the tours are generally made to Cambodia and in Chiang Mai to Burma. Here in Phuket there are two main options, both by bus – a one-day tour via Ranong to Burma (1,700 Baht = 42€) and a two-day tour to Penang in Malaysia (4,000 Baht = 100€).

Some people fly privately to Penang, Kuala Lumpur or Singapore and return the same day. My plan was to drive our rental car the 300 km from Phuket to Ranong and then just cross the border, stay one night in Burma before returning. It’s supposed to be a scenic drive up there and one night would give us a chance to see at least a little bit of life on that side of the border.

Reliable information concerning the rules are difficult to obtain. If you ask in 5 places you will usually get 5 different answers to the same question. I had heard somewhere that, if you enter with a 60-day visa (which was our case), you can apply for a one month extension, but I couldn’t get this confirmed anywhere. One tour operator told me that you only get a 15-day permit when you return from Burma at Ranong, but in the marina office they said that it might be possible to get a 15-day extension, not more, at the immigration office in Phuket. The marina manager, however, recommended that I should indeed drive to Burma because that way I would definitely receive a 30-day permit. Go figure.

In the morning of the Monday we hade planned to drive to Ranong, I decided to try to get an extension in Phuket, after all. I asked the marina manager to write a letter to immigration supporting my application for a one-month extension of our visas. As the reason for the need of an extension I told them that our boat projects in the yard had been delayed because of much rain.

I presented the letter in the immigration office in downtown Phuket, and, the days of wonder are not over yet; only 30 minutes later I was sipping a beer, with a one-month extension stamped in my passport. It turned out, that with a 60-day visa, you always get one extension of one month (for 1,900 Baht) – no explanations required! At least it was the rule of this particular day.

But it would have been interesting to see Burma. Maybe we’ll go when this extension is consumed? Our plan is to sail away before that, but who knows?

Paying your weight?

Tuesday, August 31st, 2010

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Air Asia has an excellent web-booking system. For instance, you choose weather you like to eat or not and how much luggage you need. The price for additional kilos is not excessive, contrary to the IATA penalty, which used to be something like 1% of a regular ticket per kilo.

The more weight you carry, the more fuel is needed aboard the plane and, at least theoretically, the less cargo can be carried, resulting in less revenue for the airline.

However, if this is the real reason for limiting weight, I think the airlines should go all the way. Let’s say that the average passenger weighs 80 kilos. Then enters the over-weight 130 kilo flyer with his bagage, loading the plane at the same charge with 55 kilos more of weight.

Someone might argue that charging the heavy passenger a higher fee would be discriminating, but I think it is the other way around: as the practice is today, it is the lighter person who is getting the foul treatment.


image source: doctor2008.wordpress.com

So why don’t we fight for a system with a total maximum weight limit, passenger plus luggage, of, say 80 kilos included in the price for a regular ticket? For any excess you pay more, but you don’t get credit for weighing less. About one dollar per kilo would be fair, or the fee could even be progressive.

Problem with this idea is that women, on average weigh less than men, and having cheaper tickets based on sex would probably be unacceptable.

But what the heck, women carry more luggage than men anyway – let them keep on doing this.

Indochina Road Trip – The Route

Monday, March 29th, 2010

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We are back home aboard Scorpio in Langkawi after our 15-day road trip to Indochina and Siam. Our route is explained by the map below. The red lines indicate flights (7x) and blue lines show bus trips (3x).

SEA-journey-web
(Click map for larger version)

Before we took off I had only a rough idea of our route. Our strategy was to plan as we go and we only booked one flight and hotel at a time. Therefore I tried to find hotels with internet in the room, I was carrying a laptop and did all flight and hotel bookings on the web.

We didn’t go for the dirt cheap guest houses, but stayed in four star hotels paying an average of 50 USD per night. You could probably do this trip and stay in 2-3 star hotels for around 20 USD, if you know where they are. We had no recommendations and didn’t want to risk arriving in a place we didn’t like, and as you usually arrive in each place in the evening. Therefore we always booked only one night and then extended our stay and it worked fine every time.

The full report will be posted in due course in the Log & Yarns section.

Chiang Mai – temples galore

Thursday, March 25th, 2010

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We didn’t visit all the 300 temples, only a dozen or so – guess that our temple quota is full by now. But they really are quite amazing.

templetaxi

Chiang Mai is a cool place, despite the heat and a population of 1,5 million (according to Lonely Planet) – it is Thailand’s second largest city. It has been a major centre on ancient trading routes, where caravans stopped between Simao (in China) and and Mawlamyine (on Burmas Indian Ocean coast), and it is still today the Silk-Capital of Siam. Chiang Mai’s leading tourist attraction appears to be the Night Bazaar, which is one of the largest we have experienced.

abbot

Chiang Mai is also where our tour of Indocina/Siam ends, two weeks from it’s beginning. Because of the political unreast in Bangkok, we decided to return to our yacht in Langkawi. As there are no direct flights, we will first fly to Kuala Lumpur and then to Langkawi.

A full report of the tour will be posted at the Scorpiosail website in due course.

mobile_meditation
Mobile meditation?